If you’re planning a trip to Japan, chances are you’ve heard one of these words thrown around before. People will tell you to make sure to visit an onsen, try living in a traditional Japanese ryokan, and if you can, splurge on kaiseki. What do these words all mean and how should they be properly enjoyed in the context of traditional Japanese culture?
We were able to try all three of these—onsen, ryokan, and kaiseki—during our last trip to Japan. We stayed in the most stunning local hotel located near the base of Mt. Fuji in the Yamanashi prefecture. Our stay wasn’t sponsored, but I became such a huge fan of the hotel that I just have to recommend it to everyone! It’s called the Yamadaya Hotel and I’ll be linking the booking link throughout this article. Hopefully, by the end, I’ll have convinced you that this is THE spot for enjoying luxurious Japanese traditional life.
Ryokan
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. Ryokan are not as popular these days, but Japanese locals and foreigners alike love the unique and rustic charm. Usually, a ryokan-style room has tatami flooring, wooden walls, a low table with cushions for sitting, bamboo blinds, and floor beds. I was skeptical about ryokan before because I thought those floor beds couldn’t possibly be comfortable, especially when set on a tatami floor…but boy, was I wrong!
While we were visiting Mt. Fuji, we stayed in a traditional ryokan called Yamadaya Hotel and it was just incredible. The tatami flooring feels much better on your feet than hotel carpeting and the beds were almost sinfully comfortable. I’ve officially decided there’s nothing like burrowing into the cloud of joy that is your duvet-covered futon at the end of the day. The bamboo screens were surprisingly effective at keeping the sunlight out in the morning, and it was great to have cushions to sit at our table and enjoy a cup of fresh, hot tea while watching the sun come up over Mt. Fuji in the morning.
Want to make the most of your trip to the Fuji area? I’ve written a guide that puts together 10 amazing things to do near Mt. Fuji, all with a stunning view!
An added bonus is that many ryokan nowadays are family-owned. They have been run for generations by the same people, so you’ll be supporting local businesses as well! Most ryokan are located in more rural areas away from the big cities. You can definitely stay at them in places like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, but the experience won’t be as authentic. I highly recommend booking a ryokan when you visit Mt. Fuji—nothing screams traditional more than sitting in your yukata in your tatami room underneath the most famous mountain in Japan!
Many ryokan also have an onsen (public or private), which leads me to the next section….
Onsen
An onsen is a Japanese hot spring. They can be either indoor or outdoor, public or private, but are traditionally fed with natural hot spring water if possible. Onsen is still popular in modern-day Japan and you can find several local spots to visit one no matter what city you are visiting.
Public onsen are usually large baths that are split by gender but otherwise shared. Men will have their own bath, and women will have their own bath as well. While the concept of walking around what is essentially a gigantic hot tub naked with a bunch of strangers may be a strange concept to visitors, Japanese people are very used to it and don’t find it awkward at all.
While there are some more traditional onsen and some more modern-style ones, they all generally follow the same rules.
Onsen Rule 1: Cleanliness
First, you must shower before entering the onsen. All onsen will have a small shower area where you can wash and scrub your body before getting into the water. This is extremely important because Japanese people use onsen for relaxing, not actual bathing—so you must already be clean before entering the water. None of the other visitors want to share dirty bath water either! Make sure you use soap and scrub all the dirt and dead skin off so you can enjoy the onsen properly.
Onsen Rule 2: Nudity
Second, no towels are allowed in the water. You must be fully nude in the bath because towels are considered dirty and should not touch the water at all. The staff will likely give you a small towel to bring with you, but this is not for wearing inside the onsen. You can use the towel to cover yourself while you move between the water and changing room, or between baths, but do not put the towel in the water at all. You’ll also find many locals put the towel on top of their heads while in the onsen for easy access.
As I mentioned, nudity in the onsen is not considered strange or awkward in Japan. If you find it uncomfortable or just don’t want to share with others, consider getting a hotel room with a private onsen. Then you can have it all to yourself and don’t need to worry about being naked around others. This is what we did at our hotel at Mt. Fuji and it was just wonderful! I felt so much more comfortable having my own bath and enjoying the steamy water without being stressed.
Onsen Rule 3: No Tattoos
Third, most onsen do not allow tattoos. Historically, tattoos are considered taboo in Japan because they are associated with the yakuza, or Japanese mafia. While this sentiment is slowly changing over time—most places in Japan don’t care if you have tattoos anymore—the onsen is one place where there are still strict rules about no tattoos allowed inside.
If your tattoos are small enough to cover with waterproof bandages, most places will still let you in. But if you don’t want to cover your tattoos or they are just too large to cover with bandages, your best bet is to get a private onsen where there is no one to impose rules on you.
Lastly, do not put your head, hair, or clothing in the water. Similarly to the no-towel rule, the hair and mouth are considered dirty because of oils, food particles, and germs.
Kaiseki
Kaiseki is a Japanese culinary tradition with a long and luxurious history. It’s often described as the most expensive meal in the world! Simply put, kaiseki is a traditional Japanese culinary art form that showcases the beauty of seasonal and local ingredients through a meticulously crafted multi-course set meal. The chef carefully plans the progression of dishes to take you on a journey of taste and visual delight.
Kaiseki is always multi-course, each with its own unique preparation and presentation style. From delicate sashimi to expertly grilled seafood or meats to simmered vegetables, each dish showcases the chef’s creativity and dedication to perfection.
What Makes Kaiseki Special?
The use of fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced ingredients ensures that the flavors are at their peak. Additionally, kaiseki embraces principles of hospitality and mindfulness, creating a serene ambiance and a sense of tranquility throughout the dining experience.
It’s hard to explain why kaiseki is as celebrated as it is—in the end, it’s “just” a seasonal tasting menu. You can find hundreds of those (if not thousands) in fine dining establishments around the world. However, I agree that kaiseki feels special because of its combination of culinary expression, exquisite flavors, beautiful presentation, and emphasis on peace and nourishing of the soul alongside the palate.
Kaiseki at Your Ryokan
Each night’s booking at Yamadaya Hotel comes with kaiseki for dinner, which is an amazing deal. When we were in Kyoto, I tried to find where we could have affordable kaiseki for lunch and still only found lunch sets for around 10,000 yen per person.
Not only does the kaiseki dinner at Yamadaya already pay for the cost of the hotel, but the meal was truly delicious and delightful. We had the most amazing grilled beef, the best ama-ebi (raw sweet spot shrimp) I’ve ever had, delicate and unique tempura vegetables with matcha salt, and many other dishes that blew me away.
Immerse yourself in the pinnacle of traditional Japanese living by experiencing the trifecta of ryokan, onsen, and kaiseki during your trip to Japan. Enjoy your simple yet elevated stay at your ryokan, where you’ll be greeted with genuine hospitality and a tranquil ambiance. In the morning or evening, take a dip in your steamy and relaxing onsen, rejuvenating your body and soul. Finally, savor the artistry of kaiseki, with its harmony of seasonal ingredients, meticulous preparation, and visual beauty. Experiencing this luxurious piece of Japanese culture will give you more insight into Japanese history and make it a part of your trip that you can’t forget.
Did you find this post helpful? Please consider pinning it on Pinterest with the buttons below, or following me on Instagram!
